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RESTAURANT REVIEW

A Hole Lot of Kreme-y Goodness

Krispy Kreme Doughnuts Worth the Drive and Wait

By Jeremy Baskin

Arts Editor

Krispy Kreme Doughnuts

35 Revere Beach Pkwy, Medford, MA

(781) 393-8888

Sun. - Thurs., 5 a.m. - 2 a.m.

Fri. - Sat., 5 a.m. - 3 a.m.

Drive-thru open 24 hours

In the shadow of a giant, green neon Kappy’s liquor store sign just off of Route 28 lies a nondescript red brick building with a parking lot which is packed at 9:30 p.m. on a Thursday night. “There’s an empty one. Ooh, a tight fit.” My friend’s SUV barely fits into one of the few parking spots that remain, a prelude to what will come. By the time we’re through with our foray into a little doughnut shop called Krispy Kreme, we might have trouble squeezing back into the Ford Explorer that brought us all the way to Medford.

As we walk in the door, the aroma is overwhelming. Just behind the meandering line of roughly 100 customers and an army of about 15 employees lies the machinery that makes the original glazed doughnuts before our very eyes. At the end of the line, we watch the process: small thin rings of dough expand in a chamber as they move up and down on a series of racks, and then they are deposited into a vat of bubbling oil.

After floating across, being flipped, and floating across some more oil, the now cooked doughnuts dry as they continue their journey to its grand finale: a death-defying plunge through a waterfall of glaze.

Five to ten seconds of drying occurs before the doughnut is either placed in a box of twelve for a lucky customer at the front of the line or is grabbed and handed to the next person in line.

Yup, thats right, everyone who goes to Krispy Kreme gets a free doughnut. You think it’s a good deal, but if it inspires you to pony up for an extra dozen, it’s a good deal for them. Doughnuts cost 80 to 90 cents each and about $6 or $7 per dozen, and they’re worth every penny. No need to be dunkin’ these in coffee; they taste quite all right just by themselves.

Believe it or not, a gas station about 200 yards away had a small Dunkin Donuts shop inside with a sign that read “Now Open!” Maybe it’ll be having its liquidation sale in a week because I don’t know how it expects to have any business at all.

And yes, I’d have to say I’m one of those people who agree that the best time to eat a Krispy Kreme doughnut is hot off the press, when, if you hold it too tightly, it squishes and falls right apart. The flavors in the other more exotic doughnuts are also excellent -- the swimmer I was with adores a particular chocolate, and I think he had enough original glazed ones that he might have to swim for three straight weeks to maintain his figure.

Krispy Kreme doughnuts are not new; the company was founded on July 13, 1937 by Vernon Rudolph, who opened the first shop in Winston-Salem, North Carolina, thirteen years before Dunkin Donuts was founded. Today, it has a couple hundred shops throughout the country and even a few internationally, though it is still dwarfed by Dunkin Donuts, its main competitor, which has more than 5000 worldwide.

But, as the old adage goes, quality over quantity. Except once you drive all the way to the Krispy Kreme shop in Medford -- currently the only one in Massachusetts -- you’ll want to bring home a nice, large quantity of these delicious doughnuts.